Technical
resources
UIAA123 – UIAA UPDATES STANDARD 123: ROCK ANCHORS The subject of corrosion and stress corrosion cracking failure has been a work in progress for the past ten years within the UIAA Safety Commission.
EN 959:2018 – Mountaineering equipment – Rock anchors – Safety requirements and test methods This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for rock anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing. (Requires payment of fee)
EN959:2007 Safety requirements and test methods This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for rock anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing. (Requires payment of fee)
Soft Rock Bolting Guide by M Law
UIAA Anchor Corrosion Research
articles
Built to Last? – very good article discussing the need to factor in life expectancy in cliff infrastructure. Discusses the upcoming initiatives by UIAA to tackle this problem.
Why We Need Standards – blog article that discusses why bolting standards are good for access issues.
formal risk assessments
KPN Risk Analysis – this analysis focusses on the risk associated with the climbing infrastructure proposed for the Kangaroo Point North climbing development in Brisbane. It is unique in that it treats the roped climbing system as a safety function subject to a probability of failure on demand. This formalism allows a relationship to be drawn between bolt specification, and the rate of materialisation of severe injury from bolt failure.
Page last updated 6/9/2021 by Petros Khalesirad